Kailash, abode of mahadev the god of gods. It felt like a dream come true when I got the intimation from ministry of external affairs that I was selected among the luckiest few for the Kailash Manasarovar yatra.The intimation came on May 2014 and I would be one among the 18th batch (the last batch of the year) of the yatris for Kailash Manasarovar yatra on 15 Aug 2014. All the instructions and the requirements of the yatra were clearly mentioned in the website of ministry of external affairs and the advices of former yatris from VSSC, Shri. Raghunatha Pillai (gsLVM3) and Shri. Vikram (SOG) helped me a lot in prepararing for the yatra. In addition to getting a long leave for a month sanctioned and the clearance formalities of foreign travel, I had to carefully pick the items needed for the yatra and prepare my mind and body for the journey.
As instructed, I reported at Delhi on 15th August 2014 at Gujarathi Samaj Sadan where accommodation and sumptuous Gujarati food were arranged for all the yatris for 4 days. The Kailash Tirth Yatra Vikassamithi at Delhi arranges all the facilities for the yatris and the satsang organized by them helps to create a team spirit among the members. The next day was dedicated for detailed medical tests at the Delhi Heart and Lungs Institute and I underwent a series of medical checks. The results were reviewed by the medical team of Indo Tibetan Border Police on the following day. I was relieved when my name was announced among the 40 members declared fit for the yatra. We stayed in Delhi for one more day for a briefing on the yatra at Ministry of external affairs and for completing the visa formalities. The payment was made to Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam Limited (KMVN) who arranges the food and accommodation for yatris on Indian side and also acquired the necessary US dollars and Chinese Yuvan required for the journey in Tibet region. On 19th Aug early morning, after receiving a warm sent off from the Delhi Nivasis with prayers, we set off for the Kailash Manasarovar Parikrama.
The kailash yatris are treated with reverence wherever they go. From the beginning of the journey itself warm receptions were given by various organisations. At Kathagodam we had our lunch and switched our Volvo bus for a 27 seater bus to Almora where halt for the night was arranged at KMVN guest house. The bus ride continued the next day and we visited a few temples on the way through Almora. By evening we reached Dharchula, an ancient city on the banks of Kali river sharing the border with Nepal. The arrangement of the ponies and porters were made at Dharchula. Due to shortage of ponies I got only a porter to assist me, Mr. Devendra Singh Ghuniyal. Mr Devendra Singh is a first year BA student who provides his services to the Kailash yatris to earn money for his studies.
Next day we were taken to Pangla, a village 40 km from Dharchula in Jeep as the traditional route from Narayan Ashram was closed due to landslides. All the mobile communication with the outside world ends at Dharchula as no networks are available beyond . From Pangla our trekking commenced. The baggages were transported by ponies and I carried only an overnight bag with provisions for a night halt at the next destination. The destination for the day was Sirkha, 7 kms from Pangla. The route is steady climb up through the mesmerizing Himalayalan Mountains filled with greenery and exotic flowers. By lunch time we reached Sirkha. After lunch the liason officer of our batch, Mr. Prem Singh a veteran in mountaineering who conquered the mount Everest 2 times and now working as DIG, ITBP, Chandigarh assessed the fitness of the yatris and was happy at everybody’s performance.
Next day, early morning at 5 O’clock, the trek commenced after consuming tea and biscuits. The destination was Gala a remote village in Indo Nepal Border 14 kms away from Sirkha. Though it was drizzling when the trek commenced, the sky became clear as we progressed the journey. By lunch time we reached Gala and rested for the day at the camp there. Destination for the following day was Budhi, 18 kms from Gala. One has to climb down 4444 steps near the banks of a roaring kali river in this route and there are many water falls that will drench you in this route. The Malpa village where a land slide took the lives of all the Kailash yatris including Protima Bedi (a famous Odissi dancer) and the porters in 1988 is in this route. I came to know from my porter that his father Devendra Singh was also among them. Fourth day trek started from Budhi as usual at 5 O’clock. After a 3 km steep climb we reached the plains of Chilalekh a wonderful valley full of flowers. Further 7kms trek took us to the sinking village of Garbiang famous for hot samosas. From Garbiang, Border Road Organisation(BRO) has constructed a fairly motorable road for defense purposes and ITBP was kind enough to spare us their truck to cover the 7 km stretch to Gunji.
At Gunji we reached an altitude of 12000 feet from mean sea level. The climate was very chilly and I had to wear 3 layers of warm clothes to protect myself from the chill . Medical tests are conducted to find out if any of the yatris are vulnerable to acute mountain sickness (AMS) and hence there is an extended day’s camping at Gunji. At Gunji, one gets a mesmerizing sight of the peaks of Annapoorna Mountain range in Nepal . We participated in the Bhajan at the ITBP camp temple there and also took part in planting deodars as part of reforestation programme in the region. The Chinese border is just 22kms away and the last village Kuti on Indian side is 5 kms away from Gunji. Luckily all the members of our group were declared fit for the further yatra. On third day (From Gunji), we started in the morning to Nabhidhang which is 14 kms far from Gunji. We were dropped by the BRO trucks at Kalapani which is the source of Kali river where an ancient temple of goddess Kali is also situated.
After breakfast at Kalapani camp the trek started towards Nabhidhang. The lush green forests and deodar trees gave way to barren terrain with a few cactus plants.. We could see the mighty Mount Sheshnag from there . By afternoon we reached Nabhidhang camp at the foot of the Nabhidhang mountain which is revered as a shakthipeet of Devi Parvathi (The mountain resembles the nabhi (naval) of goddess Parvathi). From Nabhidhang the Om parvat is visible. Though the sky is always cloudy in these parts we were lucky to see Om parvat and Mt. Seshnag. Nabhidhang situated at 15000 feet altitude is the last Indian army base near to Chinese border which is only 8 kms away from there . The base operates only 4 months in a year due to harsh environment. We were to reach the border next day by 05.30 hrs IST to match the Chinese timing of 08.00 hrs in the morning. The supper was served early by 6 pm itself and after a short nap we woke up by 1’O clock to get ready for the trek. The trek started by 2 am in the morning with the help of torch lights. The night was very chilly and the cold wind penetrated even four layers of thick sweaters and jacket. Though the climb was difficult in the rarified atmosphere we reached the Lipu la (Lipulekh pass at 18000 feet altitude– Indi Chinese border) by 05.00 hrs IST. At Nabhidhang itself we had deposited our memory cards and mobile phones containing the pictures taken at Indian side as a matter of National security as advised the ITBP officials and loaded the cameras with fresh memory cards.
By 08.30 hrs Chinese time the Chinese convoy reached and the yatris from the 16th batch of yatris were seen coming back up the path. The Chinese foreign ministry official and soldiers arrived at the spot and exchanged greetings and we started the climb down the pass. A 5 km trek through steep downhill was required to reach the motorable road at the Chinese side where buses were awaiting to take us to the nearest town, an old trade hub, Taklakot (12000 feet altitude) 11 kms away. Our passports were verified at Lipulekh and were briefed about the Kailash Manasarvar Parikrama programme in Chinese territory. All yatris were told to stick to the scheduled programme and visit to any other place other than those included in the programme were prohibited. They also informed that photography in Taklakot city and Chinese military establishments are prohibited and if someone was found violating this they will have to face the consequences.
At Taklakot we were taken to the Chinese emigration office for customs checks and passport verification. We had one more day stay at Taklakot to complete the visa formalities and for acclimatization. Taklakot is a fast growing small city. Everywhere construction was progressing. The roads are all well paved and all the nooks and corners are fitted with surveillance cameras. We spent the 2 days at Talkalot roaming around the city and doing some shopping. Most of the vendors are Chinese at Talkalot, however a lot of Nepalis are working here and a market selling Nepali goods is also there. The next day we set for the Kailash parikarman after morning prayers. Two buses were arranged by the Chinese authorities for the yatra and we were taken to another small city called Darchen at the Southern side of Kailash. The road to Darchen passes through the small stretch between RakshasTaal and Manasarovar Lakes. We stopped at the permitted view points at both the Lake sides to enjoy the view.
We checked into the hotel at Darchen and went for a stroll after lunch. Since it is year of Kumbh a lot of Budhist and Jain believers had come for the parikrama and to avoid the crowd and due to landslide the route to Ashtapaad (Southern view point of Kailash 5 kms from Darchen) was closed. (Mt. Kailash is holy place for Budhist and Jains and is also called as Kang Rimpoche). Next day after breakfast the buses dropped us at Yamadwar from where the Parikrama (circumbulation) of Kailash starts. At Yamadwar there is a gompa and the view of southern facet of kailash is also visible from there. The selection of the porters and ponies were at Yamadwar. Smt. Peyma and Smt. Serene (hope that’s her correct name, anyways she was answering to my calling her Serene ;)) was selected as my Porter and pony handler.
The 9 km trek from Yamadwar leads to Deraphuk camp from where the north face of Mt. Kailash is visible. The trek path is through barren plane land between many hills on left side and Kailash on the right side. Many streams originating from Kailash is flowing near to the trek path. (Mt. Kailash is the source of many holi rivers like Sindhu, Bhrahmaputra, Sutlej and Karnali a tributary to Ganga) At Deraphuk we can go as close as 2 km to the mountain and the spot is called Charansparsh. After lunch we spent rest of the day enjoying the scenic beauty of northern facet of Kailash and though we were hit by a small hail storm we could reach the Charansparsh and perform prayers. Mt.Kailash, pleased by our prayers provided us with its shining scenic views.
Next day’s trek started at early morning as we had to cover nearly 19 kms and had to cross Dolma la enroute (Dolma pass – 18000 feet altitude). The climb was at slow pace as breathing was difficult and as we reached the highest point snow fall started with a freezing wind. Prayers and offerings were made to Dolma (goddess Parvathi) and without wasting time we started to climb down the steep pass. At the foot of the steep is Parvathikund, a small pond (though small in comparison to other water bodies, it is as big as a football ground) which is believed to be the bathing place of Parvathi at Kailash. The water in Parvathi kund is considered holy and many pilgrims collect a sample of the water from the pond. Due to adverse weather conditions many porters were not willing to go down and collect water, luckily my pony handler Serene went down and brought the holy water for me.
The hail storm was terrific and walking became more and more difficult. A local Tibetan’s camp shed was on the path and we rushed inside. Luckily they were serving hot tea, soup and other Chinese foods. The hot Chinese green tea proved to be a good medicine against the freezing cold and all felt better after consuming few bowls of noodles. When the intensity of hail storm reduced we resumed walking. As we moved along, the snow fall stopped and the sky became clear. The camp for the night halt was at Zunzhuipu.
An unfortunate incident happened at Dolma pass. One of the yatri Smt. Annapoorna Devangan was affected by AMS while crossing the Dolma-la. The porters had carried her to Zunzhuipu camp. Since there was no improvement in her health condition, it was decided to evacute her to Delhi at the earliest. She was sent to Lipu-la in a land rover, ITBP soldiers carried her in stretcher to cross the pass. Due to bad weather helicopter could not be made available at the pass. ITBP soldiers again proved their efficiency. They carried her in the stretcher up to Gunji and from there air lifted her to Pithoragargh where she was admitted to a hospital. Later she was taken to her home in Bilaspur, Chatishgarh and as per the latest news her health is improving though she is still in ICU.
After the stay at Zunzhuipu, the next day early morning we started our journey back to Darchen. The sky was cloudy and it was drizzling; however we resumed our trek through the slippery track. After 7 kms we reached the motorable road and waited there for the buses to pick us. We went back to Darchen in bus (5 kms), had light breakfast in the hotel and proceeded for Manasarovar parikrama as per the programme. After 90 kms travel in bus we reached Qugu camp in the shores of Manasarovar lake. The camp at Qugu was a wonderful place with windows opening towards the serene lake. Themonastry of Qugu was nearby. Two nights stay was planned at Qugu camp. After a hearty brunch everyone was busy washing the soiled clothes and drying it. In the afternoon we went for a stroll along the stretches of the Manasarovar and also had a dip in the holy lake. The atmosphere at Manasarovar lake was quite calm and energizing and many went into deep meditation at the shores of Manasarovar where the shining south face of Mt. Kailash was visible as clouds permitted. Group prayers and havan were conducted at the Manasarovar lake during the two days stay at Qugu camp. On third day morning at Qugu camp the buses took us to hotel in Taklakot and we visited the memorial of Zorawar singh and Karchak monastery on the way. The Chinese authorities organized a farewell party at Taklakot and the party was delightful with many members from China and our group engaged in singing and dancing. Next day early morning at 5 am Chinese time (02.30 IST) we started our journey back to Lipu pass. The Director of Chinese external affairs and the Chinese army chief of the region came to see us off and then we bid adieu to the Chinese guides and porters.
Though the 5 km climb at Lipulekh pass was difficult we were happy to be back in the home land and was delighted to see the ITBP soldiers and porters waiting at the peak to welcome us. The return trek was tiresome as the camp at Nabhidhang was omitted. We had our breakfast at Nabhidhang and reached Gunji by evening. ITBP soldiers organized a farewell dinner for us. After the Bhajan with ITBP soldiers at the camp temple, we had dinner and the dinner party turned out in to a dance party soon. Next day early morning the trek resumed to Budhi. After night halt at Budhi the trek continued and we took a diversion from the path to Gala after climbing up the 4444 steps near Bindakoti and reached Garbadhar a small village where Jeeps to Dharchula were awaiting us . At Dharchula we said good bye to the dear porters who were of great help throughout the journey. Next day trip was to Almora by bus and a welcome back party was organized at the ITBP head quarters at Meerthiand. We also visited the Jageswar temple complex on the way. From Almora the journey resumed next day with warm receptions at Kathagodam by Uttarkhand Govt and reached Delhi by mid night on 9 September 2014. After the night stay at Gujarat Samaj Sadan, the next day we bid adieu to each other and I started for Trivandrum.
The KailashManasarovaryatra is organized by Ministry of External Affairs, Govt. of India and the yatra is conducted as 18 batched during June – September. The yatra is approved by Indian Mountaneering Foundation as a high altitude trek and Central Govt employees are eligible for 30 days of special casual leave. Any Indian citizen below 70 years old holding a valid passport can apply for the yatra and the applications are invited by April through the website. The selection is based on luck draw and the medical test results at Delhi. The details about the yatra is given in the following link.